Puerto Rico’s Cuisine Recognized at James Beard Foundation Awards

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• Author: Kathleen Squires
• Role: BBC Travel

• Published: 1 hour ago

Puerto Rico is renowned worldwide for its stunning beaches, talented musicians, and exceptional rum. Now, in 2023, the island has finally received recognition for its cuisine.

This year, Puerto Ricans have made a significant impact at the James Beard Foundation Awards, which celebrate the best chefs, restaurants, cookbook authors, and food journalists in the United States.

During the recent ceremonies in early June, San Juan’s restaurant, White House, which has been in operation for 43 years, received a nomination for the “Classics of America” category. Culinary writer Illyanna Maisonet won the “Voz Emergente” award for her cookbook “Diasporican,” which explores Puerto Rican cuisine in the United States. Additionally, Natalia Vallejo from Cocina al Fondo in San Juan was honored with the “Best Chef in the South” award, recognizing chefs from Louisiana, Florida, Mississippi, and Alabama.

Vallejo is not only the first Puerto Rican woman to be a finalist for this award but also the first Puerto Rican to win it. “It is a moment of pride and celebration that acknowledges the dignity of our cuisine,” says Vallejo.

It has been a long-awaited recognition. Although the James Beard Foundation Awards were established in 1990, Puerto Rico was not included in the chef and restaurant category until 2012.

Since then, the island’s chefs have consistently earned nominations every year. “Including Puerto Rico was a positive change,” says Vallejo. “These awards demonstrate the Foundation’s commitment to inclusivity. They have unlocked the door to diversity in this country and are making a significant impact by recognizing a wide range of talented chefs.”

The name “Cocina al Fondo” originates from the restaurant’s original location, which opened in 2018 at the back of an art and performance space. In 2022, it moved to its current home inside a charming Spanish-style casita.

The menu at Cocina al Fondo is inspired by the island’s agriculture, and Vallejo is part of a growing movement that aims to promote local products and support Puerto Rico’s farmers. “Farmers cultivate and create planting plans specifically for us based on our demand,” says Vallejo. “We also strive to purchase all the produce they have available, especially the surplus, to prevent wastage.”

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The support from chefs like Vallejo not only ensures the safe growth of farmers but also helps reduce the island’s dependence on imports in its food system. “My mission when collaborating with farmers and producers is to raise awareness about the power that consumers have in activating the local economy,” says Vallejo.

Although the menu at Cocina al Fondo varies with the seasons and availability of ingredients, diners can always expect to connect with the traditions and flavors of the island.

Vallejo’s favorite ingredients include lerenes, a small tuber with a taste resembling a cross between a fingerling potato and a water chestnut; rabbit, one of the most sustainable meats on the island, which she enjoys serving stewed with rice or as meatballs; and beans, which she often simmers with celery.

Even the cocktail list, created by Vallejo’s partner, Karla Z Torres, focuses on seasonal produce, featuring unique fruits like gooseberry and quenepa, a relative of lychee, grown in the restaurant’s backyard. The bar also offers a selection of locally produced spirits.

When asked about her signature dish, Vallejo immediately mentions chicken soup. She describes it as an ancestral dish made entirely with local ingredients, representing a taste of the countryside served in the city. “It also symbolizes the tradition of women cooking together in front of the fire with their traditional pots,” she adds.

Her recipe includes country chicken, known for its flavorful broth; recao (also known as cilantro), a highly aromatic herb that is a hallmark of Puerto Rican cuisine; annatto, which gives the soup a vibrant golden color; and mofongo balls, made from mashed green plantains and garlic, fried twice to achieve the perfect texture. Chayote and avocado garnishes add additional layers of flavor and texture
Puerto Rico’s cuisine has been recognized at the James Beard Foundation Awards, with several Puerto Rican chefs and restaurants receiving prestigious awards. Natalia Vallejo from Cocina al Fondo in San Juan became the first Puerto Rican to win the “Best Chef in the South” award. The island’s chefs have consistently earned nominations since Puerto Rico was included in the awards in 2012. The article highlights the impact of the awards in promoting diversity and inclusivity in the culinary industry. Cocina al Fondo is known for its menu inspired by local agriculture and its support for Puerto Rico’s farmers.

How does the recognition of Puerto Rican chefs at the James Beard Foundation Awards promote inclusion in the culinary industry?

The recognition of Puerto Rican chefs at the James Beard Foundation Awards promotes inclusion in the culinary industry in several ways:

1. Representation: By acknowledging and honoring Puerto Rican chefs, the James Beard Foundation Awards contribute to increasing the representation of diverse culinary traditions within the industry. This recognition helps break the traditional mold of the “fine dining” industry, which has historically been dominated by Eurocentric cuisine.

2. Cultural appreciation: Puerto Rican chefs bring their unique culinary heritage to the forefront, which allows for a deeper appreciation of Puerto Rican cuisine and its cultural significance. This recognition encourages the exploration and celebration of diverse culinary traditions, fostering a more inclusive culinary landscape.

3. Opportunities for growth: Recognizing Puerto Rican chefs at prestigious awards like the James Beard Foundation provides them with increased visibility and credibility. This recognition can open up doors for collaboration, partnerships, and career advancement. It encourages other aspiring chefs from different backgrounds to pursue their culinary dreams and offers them the hope of being recognized for their talent.

4. Amplifying voices: The recognition of Puerto Rican chefs at the James Beard Foundation Awards provides a platform for these chefs to share their culinary experiences, stories, and knowledge. This visibility helps amplify their voices and perspectives, contributing to a more inclusive dialogue within the culinary industry.

Overall, the recognition of Puerto Rican chefs at the James Beard Foundation Awards promotes inclusivity by diversifying the culinary landscape, appreciating cultural traditions, creating opportunities for growth, and amplifying underrepresented voices within the industry.